The holiday
season is upon us and it is that time of year when most breweries release their
obligatory Winter/Seasonal Ale. While Winter Ale is not a recognized style, a
few styles of beer and ingredients lend themselves to producing beers hardy
enough for winter. I generally think of barley wines, malty beers, spiced ales,
and old ales with high alcohol content. Recently I’ve run across a couple of
winter ales that don’t really fit into the winter ale category. They weren’t necessarily
bad but definitely not what I expected or didn’t satisfy my winter cravings.
Below is a sampling of those beers.
Smuttynose
Winter Ale, Portsmouth, NH
Amber/brown colored
with a medium tan head. Aroma of roasted malts, caramel, and chocolate. Light body
with some caramel notes but lacking on malt characteristics. I was a little
disappointed.
Verdict: Not Naughty nor Nice
Big Sky Powder
Hound, Missoula, MT
Copper colored
with large white head. Aroma of floral/earthy hops and malt. Medium body with
floral/earthy hop bitterness upfront and a nice malt backbone. Seems like an
IPA guised as a Winter Ale.
Verdict: Not bad for an IPA but deserves a
visit from Krampus
Harpoon Winter
Warmer, Boston, MA
Amber/brown colored
with small tan head. Aroma of cinnamon and nutmeg with some malt sweetness.
Light body with overpowering cinnamon upfront which overpowers anything else.
The aroma was the best thing about this.
Verdict: Like a Christmas Wreath, best
thing about it is its aroma
Goose Island
Sixth Day, Chicago, IL
Brown colored
with small tan head. Light aroma of hops and roasted malt. Medium body with
earthy hop bitterness upfront, some caramel and chocolate notes, and a warm
alcohol finish.
Verdict: On Santa’s Nice List
Victory
Winter Cheer, Downington, PA
Golden colored
with large white head and nice lacing. Aroma of wheat, banana, and citrus.
Light body with citrus hops upfront, fruit notes, and some wheat body. Another summer
beer masquerading as a Winter Ale.
Verdict: Shouldn’t be surprised with coal
in the stocking
Sam Adams
Winter Lager, Boston, MA
Dark amber colored
with small tan head. Aroma of caramel and citrus. Light body with malt
sweetness upfront and notes of cinnamon and caramel.
Verdict: On Santa’s Nice List
Great Divide
Hibernation Ale, Denver, CO
Brown colored
with small tan head. Aroma of roasted malts and coffee. Medium body with malt
body and coffee notes upfront some hop bitterness and a dry finish.
Verdict: A gift from St. Nick himself
I am not one
to say beers should follow the exact guidelines of a style or that brewers
shouldn’t experiment with new ingredients and techniques but when I get a
Winter Ale I have some expectations. I expect not to get an IPA guised or
repackaged as a Winter Ale and I expect to get something that’s warming (high
in alcohol) or at least malty. Just simply slapping a winter label on a beer
does not make it a Winter Ale. Have a happy holidays and prost!