January 15, 2014

The Magic of Maillard

Ever walk into a homebrew shop and wonder how or why there are so many varieties and types of malt? I know when I first started home brewing I was amazed by the dozens of choices I had; black malt, chocolate malt, caramel malts, biscuit, Vienna, and victory malts . Dark specialty malts are especially important ingredients for the production of several beer styles (e.g. stouts and porters). Most of these specialty malts owe their existence to one reaction, the Maillard Reaction (Figure 1).


Figure 1. Black malt (Patent Malt)

The Maillard Reaction is responsible for many of our favorite flavors in food. Think about coffee, a nice seared steak, the crust on your favorite bread, or most importantly your favorite porter.  The Reaction is often called the “browning reaction” and it isn’t only about the color but the flavor it produces in a complex set of reactions involving sugars, amino acids, and heat.  
The reactive carbonyl group (having one oxygen atom double-bonded to a carbon atom) of the sugars found in malt reacts with the nucleophilic amino group (organic molecule with a nitrogen base that tends to donate a pair of electrons to form a bond) of the amino acid (building blocks of proteins), and forms a complex mixture of molecules responsible for a range of odors and flavors (Figure 2). This process is accelerated in an alkaline environment (e.g., lye applied to darken pretzels) and the type of the amino acids involved also determines the resulting flavors (1).



Figure 2. Example of Carbonyl groups of a simple sugar

The temperature and duration of the roast largely determines the level of the reaction. Malts used primarily for coloring beer are produced on a kiln using elevated curing temperatures, while caramel malts and roasted malts are attained from roasting green malt and pilsner malt in a device similar to that used for coffee roasting (2). The longer the kilning process the less aromatics that are present in the finished malt and the more dry burnt flavors are added to beer. The darker malts also have no enzymes available to help in mashing (conversion of starches to fermentable sugars) which includes black malt (Black Patent), chocolate malt, and caramel (crystal malts). The next post will cover how these malts are used to create a stout.



  1. Maillard reaction. (2013, October 30). In Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia. Retrieved 23:49, November 26, 2013, from http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Maillard_reaction&oldid=579509781
  2. Coghe, S. et al. 2006. Development of Maillard Reaction Related Characteristics During Malt Roasting. J. Inst. Brew. 112(2), 148–156, 2006

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